Amalfi Coast & Capri
We chose lodging in Amalfi based on cost. We stayed at a cute AirBnB overlooking the Amalfi cathedral and coast line. We would have preferred to stay in Positano but we booked our trip late and the cost was more than double. Positano is the lovelier of the two towns, with more beach frontage and better coastal views. Staying in Amalfi is a great option if price consciousness is your thing. You can easily take an eight Euro ferry (one way) to enjoy Positano and the views on the way won’t disappoint. Make sure you pack your linen button-downs. Positano is the place “to be seen” with everyone sporting their best “fresh-off-the-yacht” look. Drinks can get pricey with two cocktails going for twenty-five Euros. Hopefully you drink beer - Peronis go for about five Euros a pop.
After a few days in Amalfi, we took a ferry to Capri and stayed at a cute Bed and Breakfast. Make sure you head to Anacapri and take the chairlift to the top of Monte Solero. Keep in mind you're doing this for the 'gram as it's perhaps the most picturesque view you'll get of Faraglioni. Capri has a ritzy, Nantucket-style vibe to it; you can expect to see a few super yachts!
Amalfi Coast Overview
Local Food: 9/10. Where to begin! Everything seems so fresh and made-to-order. It’s as if the tomatoes on your Brushetta were picked 5 minutes prior. Bursting flavours with every bite, it’s no wonder Italian food all over the world reigns supreme. The gelato will have you dancing, the seafood gives life and the pasta will help you snooze through the night uninhibited. If you’re in need of a food coma, the Amalfi coast will take you in her arms and rock you to sleep with ease. In Amalfi, get a reservation at Marina Grande and go all in on the seafood. Super friendly staff, Michelin rated restaurant, fresh Amberjack, scallops, mussels. Can’t go wrong here! Also, make sure you check out Donna Stella Pizzeria and go for the Teddy: a Bruschetta-inspired pizza that’s one of the best you’ll ever have. If you're in Capri, hit up Terrazza Brunella for a delicious candle-lit dinner with remarkable sunset views. During the day, head over to La Fontelina for their seafood.
Local Culture: 6/10. These are beach towns so if you’re a huge art or history buff, you might find the coast a bit underwhelming. Not a museum in site—this isn’t Venice or Rome. What makes the coast so popular are the views, particularly from the Path of the Gods which does have cultural significance as it has ties to Homer’s The Odyssey. Resonating from the island of Capri, you’ll hear the mermaids sound their sirens, luring you closer with each step. If you're in the area and don't do this hike, you're a boob, plain and simple.
Scenery: 9.5/10. You can’t give a 10. This might be as close to heaven as you can get. If you get to this part of the world and don’t walk the Path of the Gods, you’ve missed the opportunity of a lifetime. I can't stress this enough. Around every corner is a new vantage point that will leave you in awe. Set aside a half day to do this. Our iPhones said that the hike was around 7 miles. We took a bus from Amalfi up to Bomerano and eventually made our way down to Positano. There are lots of steps on the descend which will cause your legs to shake regardless of your physical conditioning. 80 degree weather in September was perfect for us! If you want to mix things up a bit and need to get away from the buzz of the town centers, I recommend doing the waterfall walk through Valle delle Ferriere and the lemon groves of Amalfi. There is a cute organic farm on the path which offers some relief from the sun—rehydrate here with a lemon slushy.
Make sure you get out on the water no matter where you are to take the beauty in from another angle. Don't be afraid to get your skipper on and rent a boat or two! The sheer rock faces with homes strewn throughout offer endless photos from the sea. In closing, get up high or go out on the water.
Friendliness: 7/10. Italians seem a bit aloof. With the massive amount of tourism that feeds these local towns, it’s only logical that they’ll begin to break down towards the end of the summer. Doing this trip in September made sense for us since it’s a bit cheaper and less crowded. We can’t imagine doing the 7 mile hike in the hellish heat of July.
Walkability: 3/10. Unless you’re at beach level, expect burning thighs and calves. These towns weren’t built with transport in-mind. I wouldn’t recommend renting a car here unless you’re filled to the brim with bravery. The roads are some of the tightest we’ve ever seen and the tour buses regularly kiss mirrors of oncoming vehicles and occasionally graze the lining of a bridge or two. If you’re at all physically handicapped, this will be a tough trip. If you're able, suck it up and get those steps in as I can promise you, the views are worth every penny.